Hand Tools
(Click on the photos for links)
*The following are (mostly) Amazon affiliate links. This means I get a small percentage kickback which supports my channel. Amazon.com listings can change… If a link seems inaccurate please fill out my contact form and let me know. I have researched each listing to ensure it is at least equivalent to what I own. Some are slightly different versions.
Magnetic Saw Guide Make complex joinery MUCH easier. With a little practice, you can get flawless dovetails with these guides. They clamp to your work piece and your saw sticks to the embedded magnet for perfect cuts. After you cut the tails, the clamp flips around for the pin angle. I use 1:8 angle for dovetails in hardwoods, 1:6 for softwoods and 90 degrees for other cuts.
Japanese Chisels High-quality Japanese chisels... not exactly the same set as mine but very similar. They are laminated with two types of steel. The bottom & edge are much harder to hold sharpness longer. The top is softer to increase durability.
Japanese Plane Once you get used to adjusting these planes with subtle "taps" on the iron, they are a dream to use. There is great beauty in their simplicity.
Japanese Pull Saw (Ripping) I love these saws. They cut so incredibly well and I find them much easier to control since they work on the pull-stroke. The blades are interchangeable so when they get dull you just replace them.
Japanese Pull Saw (Crosscut) I love these saws. They cut so incredibly well and I find them much easier to control since they work on the pull-stroke. The blades are interchangeable so when they get dull you just replace them.
Japanese Pull Saw (Joinery) This saw has a rigid spline so it is ideal for joinery when NOT using a dovetail guide. For cutting dovetails with a magnetic saw guide, you'll want the "rip saw" and "crosscut saw" I've listed.
Japanese Mallet I love the feel of this mallet for chiseling, adjusting plane blades, or even taping dowels into place. It is well balanced and looks great too.
Marking Knive This Japanese marking knife is made with very hard tool steel to keep an edge through hundreds of cuts. It is flat on one side so you can get it right up to your straight edge for intricate joinery.
Marking Gauge Simple but beautifully designed Japanese marking gauge for joinery.
Sharpening Gauge Because I use a Worksharp 3000 sharpener, I need to set the exact angle before I start. This simple tool tells me the angle of each chisel or plane blade so I can set up the sharpening machine properly.
Incra T-Square A very versatile and accurate square for layout and joinery. It has tiny holes for your mechanical pencil, registered at every 1/64". There are even marks on the edge. The "fence" is even adjustable so you can convert it to sit on its side.
6 Inch Rule My number one favorite measuring tool. Easy to read against its matte finish, and it even has markings along the edge for setting up the height of a router bit. A bit pricey but you won't regret it.
Double Squares This set of two double squares is very handy for accurate measuring, marking and setup.
Digital Angle Finder A great tool for accurately finding and setting angles for walls, furniture parts, and machinery.
Digital Calipers Essential for accurate measurements of all kinds. Find the thickness of a veneer, the exact depth of a whole, the width of your table saw blade, the length of your tenon, etc.
Sanding Pad Probably my number one favorite BUDGET tool. I love how easy it is to change the sandpaper on these soft foam sanding pads. They use the same 5" round sanding disks as my random orbit sander, and just stick on with velcro. I keep 2 of these within arms reach at all times so I can have a couple different grits ready to go.
Sanding Pads I would start with the yellow sanding pads first (they are my favorite) but these are handy as well. They also take 5" hook-and-loop sanding disks but are more flexible so they can easily wrap around a table leg or turning. There is a hand strap on the top.
Handscrew Clamp Don't think of these as a clamp, think of them as a JIG. I mostly use these for things like holding awkward pieces securely one the drill press, or securing a workpiece to my tablesaw miter gauge before each cut. 6" and 12" are both handy sizes.
Deadblow Mallet Must-have item for woodworking. They are filled with lead shot and when you strike your workpiece the energy is transferred in a way that is more efficient and safer... It doesn't just "bounce off", It hits with a "thud" instead of a "bang" and is less likely to damage the wood.
Tool Bag For those times when you need to do a little work away from your shop and want to bring a few small tools with you. This bag is durable and actually holds quite a lot, with nice dividers inside+out for screws, bits, etc.
F-Clamps You see me use these on almost every project. I think they're the perfect clamp. You can really torque these down with a lot of pressure. I have the older style, but I wish mine had these nice rubberized handles and soft-jaw inserts. You'll want to keep adding more of these to your collection, the perfect number is "one more than you currently own".
Bar Clamp AKA Cabinet Clamp or Parallel Clamp. These are really the perfect clamp for cabinetry and case work. The large pads are non-marring and keep your workpiece nice and straight.
Spring Clamp Handy for small glue-ups. These are professional grade though, and have quite a bit more pressure than similar "cheap" spring clamps.
Shop Scissors I like having a quality pair of large, heavy duty scissors in my shop. I even use them for cutting veneer.
Soft Jaw Pliers These pliers have non-marring inserts to protect delicate parts. The inserts are replaceable for when they wear out.
Soft Jaw Needle Nose Pliers These pliers have non-marring inserts to protect delicate parts. The inserts are replaceable for when they wear out.